If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot
glue is the way. If you are going to do a lot of the same size you can
build a table for them. I built a second table that I double tape to the
original table. My original table I never use directly. I drilled a
1/4" hole in the center and make a secondary table that I attach with
double sided tape. This hole helps me quickly align my rotary table to the
router and to align the second table to the first table by using a 1/4"
dowel. To make the rosette hold down table I screwed blocks on three sides
of center to hold the rosette centered. The 4th side is on a pivot that
when closed I lock it with the 5th swivel block and a dowel pin to hold it
locked. If you are going to cut on the outside
I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table
to cut blocks round. On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on
my oscillating sander to smooth the edges and get the final diameter. Much
Much Safer. Use the rotary table to cut the surface only not all the way
thru. Screws, hot glue, DS tape are all good and well, but when I do
rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a time. The less screwing the better (
in this case). With my table, I can change out the rosette in seconds . .
. no holes, no hot glue residue to clean up, and no DS tape to peel.
Again, I think I will redo this table with sliding tracks, I then can set
up to do any size rosette ( or box lid). The DS tape to hold the secondary
table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a dowel in the center.
The tape only hold the table from spinning. I guess I could screw
As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see
there are lines drawn on the table. To create lines is as follows:
This set up, Is just a little moderation from the original unit, (I think the table had to much play in the workings from the factory, so I figured a way to tighten up the whole unit,) It has worked well for me so far. I can use the handle and have more freedom with out hitting my hand on the legacies inside rails. or I can mount the indexing gears and turn any amount of degree I wish to and lock in place. I just put another locking arm on the bottom of the table, this evening. (one worked ,but two is better.) Everything is pretty straight forward, I used some ShopSmith parts to make the coupling easer, but any coupler that can go from a #2 mortise taper to a 5/8" shaft will do. The mounting of the table needed a little lift (approx 1/16") to hold down the table I drilled a hole and taped to a 3/8" thread. next I used a all thread rod, and screwed the rod into the hole, using a nut a jammed the two together (to lock in place) next the plywood and handle are easy to make. The two pieces of plywood (side runners) are tight to the side rails, and are bolted through the table.
Here is what I did. I took a 14" square piece of drafting
table top, found center. Used a bowl cutting
To keep things in place use a piece of sticky
back sand paper about 100 grit or so. Or even some stair step non-skid
tape. It will cure your slip problem. The drafting table top is just
First I am from Bloomington Il. I have been learning from everybody on this forum. The first picture is the way I hooked up the table to my head stock. I use different tables for each thing I do on the table. I just use 1/4" pins to line everything up. The second picture shows that I am making new indexing plates. This one is for 15 degree and 22 1/2 degree spacing. They are made out of 1/8" hard board. The next two pictures are of the way I hold down my rosettes. In the bottom there is a screw through the plywood with just a small tip through to pin the rosette when I lock the arm in. I would like say that I really enjoy this forum and wish that we could all meet sometime. I have been woodworking for about 20 years as a second income. I work for (now don't laugh) The Town Of Normal, Illinois. My hours are am-12pm Tuesday thru Friday so this gives me time to do my woodworking. For the last 6 years I have been doing a lot of kitchens and am tired of doing them. So with my Legacy I am trying something different. OK enough rambling time to relax.
I've now got a new table top on my turn table, the hot glue sticks to it well. but It also comes off with out damaging the surface.
I mounted the poly. sheeting with screws to the old table top, (after re-surfacing the particle board first) then I turned the table round. centered and scribed a My cross hairs, then notched the hairs at 1,2,3" then using a Sharpie marker I darkened the lines.
the plywood is just my scrap ,Lets see project. ;-) It glued on held, and was removed with out any problems.
NOT TO BAD for 20 min. worth of work! ;-)
have a good night.
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