Russ V

  If you are going to do a couple of rosettes only, hot glue is the way.  If you are going to do a lot of the same size you can build a table for them.  I built a second table that I double tape to the original table. My original table I never use directly.  I drilled a 1/4" hole in the center and make a secondary table that I attach with double sided tape.  This hole helps me quickly align my rotary table to the router and to align the second table to the first table by using a 1/4" dowel.  To make the rosette hold down table I screwed blocks on three sides of center to hold the rosette centered.  The 4th side is on a pivot that when closed I lock it with the 5th swivel block and a dowel pin to hold it locked.  If you are going to cut on the outside
to make it round then use a small piece of DS tape to hold the piece once you cut it loose.  If they are already cut to size and shape the you only need to lock it in the table.  I used sand paper on the stationary blocks and a nail cut off  on the pivot block to help hold the rosette.  I am thinking that now I am going to make a table with sliding track going out in 4 directions from center so I can then adjust the blocks to fit any size rosette.  

 I wouldn't particularly want to use the indexing table to cut blocks round.  On small objects I use the band saw and then a jig on my oscillating sander to smooth the edges and get the final diameter.  Much Much Safer.  Use the rotary table to cut the surface only not all the way thru.  Screws, hot glue, DS tape are all good and well, but when I do rosettes I usually do 100 or 200 at a time.  The less screwing the better ( in this case).  With my table, I can change out the rosette in seconds . . . no holes, no hot glue residue to clean up, and no DS tape to peel.  Again, I think  I will redo this table with sliding tracks, I then can set up to do any size rosette ( or box lid).  The DS tape to hold the secondary table isn't holding much (stress wise) since I use a dowel in the center.  The tape only hold the table from spinning.   I guess I could screw the
secondary table down but I like to keep  my primary table clean with only  the center hole so it will last.  I think I am going to put a Formica laminate on it to make it more durable and let DS tape stick better.  
The center hole technique to center everything is really handy.  Once I center the table, everything can be centered quicker too.   For example, If I am going to center several object of the same size, I make one with a hole in the center so I can then set it in place with a dowel.  Then I DS tape cleats in place on two sides.  Now, every piece I set, whether with hot glue, DS tape or whatever, the cleats will help me align to center quicker.

Russv

As to centering, if you look at my table pics you will see there are lines drawn on the table.  To create lines is as follows:

After centering the machine, put a bit with a point in the router.  Put the router over center, lock the carriage down on the x axis,  and plunge down to barely touch the table.  Start the router and plunge down.  Then slide the router along the y axis in one direction to the outside edge to make a score line.  Come back to center.  Do not go the other direction on the y axis.  Turn the handle on the rotary table one full turn and slide the router along the y axis again and back to center.  Do this 8 times and you
should see 4 long lines on your table at 45 degrees apart.  The reason you don't go both directions off the y axis is so that now when you look at the lines, they should look straight all along the line even though you drew it by two operations.  If the lines don't look straight, then you weren't centered. 
If everything looks straight, then you are good to go.  Make sure you always line the router to this center point and you will be good to go. To align a block of wood is simple now.  If the block of wood has 90 degree corners then when you line up all 4 corners on the lines on your table you are centered.  This still works on an octagon shape also.  make sure you use a pen in your score lines to make them easier to see.

Curt George

This set up, Is just a little moderation from the original unit, (I think the table had to much play in the workings from the factory, so I figured a way to tighten up the whole unit,) It has  worked well for me so far. I can use the handle and have more freedom with out hitting my hand on the legacies inside rails. or I can mount the indexing gears and turn any amount of degree I wish to and lock in place.  I just put another locking arm on the bottom of the table, this evening. (one worked ,but two is better.)  Everything is pretty straight forward, I used some ShopSmith parts to make the coupling easer, but any coupler that can go from a #2 mortise taper to a 5/8" shaft will do.  The mounting of the table needed a little lift (approx 1/16")  to hold down the table I drilled a hole and taped to a 3/8" thread. next I used a all thread rod, and screwed the rod into the hole, using a nut a jammed the two together (to lock in place) next the plywood and handle are easy to make. The two pieces of plywood (side runners) are tight to the side rails, and are bolted through the table. 
 

John Doe

Here is what I did. I took a 14" square piece of drafting table top, found center. Used a bowl cutting
template to draw 1" incremental circles. Then I routed a groove and inserted T track to intersect in center using hold downs to hold sides of material. Here's my problem, I am using a plunge cutting round over bit to round over the outside edges and regardless of how tight I tighten it down it still vibrates loose. I don't think I'm taking too big a bite each pass. What are some good projects for the rotary table?

To keep things in place use a piece of sticky back sand paper about 100 grit or so.  Or even some stair step non-skid tape.  It will cure your slip problem.  The drafting table top is just too slick.

 

First I am from Bloomington Il.  I have been learning from everybody on this forum. The first picture is the way I hooked up the table to my head stock. I use different tables for each thing I do on the table. I just use 1/4" pins to line everything up. The second picture shows that I am making new indexing plates. This one is for 15 degree and 22 1/2 degree spacing. They are made out of 1/8" hard board. The next two pictures are of the way I hold down my rosettes. In the bottom there is a screw through the plywood with just a small tip through to pin the rosette when I lock the arm in. I would like say that I really enjoy this forum and wish that we could all meet sometime. I have been woodworking for about 20 years as a second income. I work for (now don't laugh) The Town Of Normal, Illinois. My hours are am-12pm Tuesday thru Friday so this gives me time to do my woodworking. For the last 6 years I have been doing a lot of kitchens and am tired of doing them. So with my Legacy I am trying something different. OK enough rambling time to relax.     

                                                                                     Mike

OK!
IT WORKED!!!
 I've now got a new table top on my turn table, the hot glue sticks to it well. but It also comes off with out damaging the surface.
 I mounted the poly. sheeting with screws to the old table top, (after re-surfacing the particle board first) then I turned the table round. centered and scribed a My cross hairs, then notched the hairs at 1,2,3"  then using a Sharpie marker I darkened the lines.
the plywood is just my scrap ,Lets see project. ;-)  It glued on held, and was removed with out any problems.
 NOT TO BAD for 20 min. worth of work! ;-)
 have a good night.
 C.A.G. 

 

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Last modified: February 19, 2008